時尚和政治真的一碼歸一碼嗎?
(龐克教母龐克教母Vivienne Westwood高喊著:「品質勝過數量,買得多不如買得巧!選擇好品質,讓衣服有長久生命而不只是快時尚。」)
服裝本身就是設計師表明想法的場域。龐克教母Vivienne Westwood總是使用他的作品來表達自身觀點,從環保議題、社會議題都能從他的設計中看見;Gucci在2020 Resort中討論阿拉巴馬州墮胎的政策;反思於女性主義、法西斯主義、消費文化、大眾文化的服裝設計更是層出不窮,每個設計師都有自己的思想與反饋。「時裝其實並不是關於衣服,而是關乎生活」傳奇總編輯Franca Sozzani說,當代對於生活各層面的所思所感,我想,這也是為什麽Franca能製作出如此不同面貌的Vogue Italia,用時尚討論整形、討論石油污染、討論Black Issue。
View this post on Instagram
We're so inspired by model, @ayeshatanjones, who made a courageous stand against the stigmatization of mental health on Sunday. Ayesha silently protested the straightjacket inspired designs of the Gucci show they were walking in, by writing "Mental health is not fashion" on their hands. "As an artist and model who has experienced my own struggles with mental health, as well as family members and loved ones who have been affected by depression, anxiety, bipolar and schizophrenia, it is hurtful and insensitive for a major fashion house such as Gucci to use this imagery as a concept for a fleeting fashion moment. Many people with mental health issues are still stigmatized in the workplace and in daily life, while many people still do not consider mental health issues are 'real illnesses' as they may not be visible. [Straitjackets] are a symbol of a cruel time in medicine when mental illness was not understood, and people's rights and liberties were taken away from them, while they were abused and tortured in the institution." 📸 via @ayeshatanjones
A post shared by The Happy Hour (@thisishappyhour) on
當提到政治時尚,可能會想到柴契爾夫人的Power Suit、賈桂琳夫人的Chanel套裝、英國前首相梅伊的豹紋小貓跟。政治人物的衣著或許跟政績、政治本身沒有太多關連,卻是認識他這個人的首要條件,畢竟You are what you wear不變的道理。
View this post on Instagram
Margaret Hilda Thatcher, Baroness Thatcher, LG, OM,DStJ, PC, FRS, HonFRSC (née Roberts; 13 October 1925 – 8 April 2013) was a British stateswoman who served as Prime Minister of the United Kingdom from 1979 to 1990 and leader of the Conservative Party from 1975 to 1990. She was the longest-serving British prime minister of the 20th century and the first woman to hold that office. A Soviet journalist dubbed her "The Iron Lady", a nickname that became associated with her uncompromising politics and leadership style. As Prime Minister, she implemented policies known as Thatcherism. She also sent the pride of Britain to reclaim the Falkland Islands, after it they were invaded by Argentine forces. Rule Britannia 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧!!! #margaretthatcher #thatcherism #rulebritannia #britain #godsavethequeen #thebritishempire
A post shared by Rule Britannia (@rulebritannia1922) on
American Vogue在總統大選後,都會對第一夫人進行專訪與拍攝,從Jacqueline Kennedy、Nancy Reagan、Hilary Clinton、Laura Bush到時尚界最愛的Michelle Obama。唯獨漏了Melania Trump,沒有別人就是川普他老婆,這是巧合嗎?好巧不巧,Tom Ford、Marc Jacobs、Christian Siriano還有Sophie Theallet都拒絕為Melania治裝。
你可能會說,不過就是穿了件衣服嘛,拍了個封面。但事實是,第一夫人的服裝選擇對於經濟層面、意識形態還有文化有深遠的影響。拿經濟來說,紐約大學商學院的研究顯示,當歐巴馬夫人穿了某一個單品,品牌平均會增加1400萬美元的收益。或許在許多年前,政治人物的「衣裝」並不是政治行為,但現今已經是密不可分,那被時尚圈排擠又是另一個事件。
View this post on Instagram
“After many months of reflection and internal discussions, we have chosen to make a transition this year in starting to carve out a progressive new role within this institution. We intend to step back as ‘senior’ members of the Royal Family and work to become financially independent, while continuing to fully support Her Majesty The Queen. It is with your encouragement, particularly over the last few years, that we feel prepared to make this adjustment. We now plan to balance our time between the United Kingdom and North America, continuing to honour our duty to The Queen, the Commonwealth, and our patronages. This geographic balance will enable us to raise our son with an appreciation for the royal tradition into which he was born, while also providing our family with the space to focus on the next chapter, including the launch of our new charitable entity. We look forward to sharing the full details of this exciting next step in due course, as we continue to collaborate with Her Majesty The Queen, The Prince of Wales, The Duke of Cambridge and all relevant parties. Until then, please accept our deepest thanks for your continued support.” – The Duke and Duchess of Sussex For more information, please visit sussexroyal.com (link in bio) Image © PA
A post shared by The Duke and Duchess of Sussex (@sussexroyal) on
不得不提的是,凱特王妃跟梅根王妃對於時尚的影響力,許多時尚媒體把「皇室效應」列為2010年代指標性的趨勢,她們穿什麼不只英國爆款還一路熱銷到全世界,更別提梅根在2019的九月號擔任British Vogue的客座主編,邀請11位女性聊聊”Force for Change”,來自不同背景的他們,代表著不同身份發聲,同時也是去年去世的Peter Lindbergh遺作之一。 「投票是一件不能被視為理所當然的事,它是民主的支柱。」Tory Burch這麼說。講這麼多就是想喚醒大家回家投票。
U have your own domain.
Cool